Pest Control and Termite Control - 10 Common Myths & Some Outright Lies!

Pest Control and Termite Control - 10 Common Myths & Some Outright Lies! Pest Control & Termite Control Myths 1. “Electronic pest control systems actually work”. This is one of the biggest myths of the industry and lots of people still believe it without any valid scientific evidence. The only ones that work are the ones that emit a spark, barbequing the unfortunate cockroach. How could you place a solitary ultrasonic device in one room of a house, pointing in one direction and expect it to protect your whole home from pests? Even if it did annoy a rat when it crossed through the rays, wouldn’t it just hide somewhere else in the house, close to the food and shelter? Why on Earth would it run outside the house? 2. “Make the poison a bit stronger so that it will work better.” This is just dangerous and a waste of chemical. You can’t kill a cockroach twice by doubling the strength or make the residue last longer. All you do is make the residue more dangerous to humans/environment and waste money on something that isn’t necessary. 3. “Black widow spiders eat their male companions after mating.” Female black widow spiders rarely eat their male companions after mating. But females are the most treacherous of the black widow spiders. Typically black, the body of female black widows is approximately one and one-half inches long, including the legs. The female back widow spider can be identified by the red hourglass shaped marking on the abdomen. Male back widows are one-half the size of the females and lack the red hourglass marking. The Black Widow is a close relative of the Australian Red Back Spider. 4. “Rat poison is “secret stuff” that keeps rats from smelling in your home”. The truth? There is no such rodenticide. If you are baiting rodents, you can rest assured that they will die in areas where they normally frequent: their nesting site, their food source, or in between. Most rat and mouse baits are simply anti-coagulants, blood thinners. Any mammal’s blood clots naturally. An anti-coagulant (Talon, Bromakil etc.) stops the clotting to an extreme, causing the rodent to die from internal bleeding. This is why you sometimes find a dead rodent that has blood showing in its nostrils or ears. The first commercial anti-coagulant rodent baits contained Warfarin, which is still in use today by medical professionals to help prevent unwanted blood clots. Rat and mouse baits being used today are mainly third and fourth generation anti-coagulants. These newer materials kill rodents faster, requiring less bait to kill targeted rodent pests. To lessen the chances (or amount) of odour, incorporate glue traps or snap traps into your baiting program. You will then have dead rodents that can be removed before there is an odour. 5. “If you see one cockroach there are always 100 more where it came from.” myth. But it is true sometimes. If you see cockroaches in your kitchen every day, or every night when you turn on the light, you have a real problem. 6. “Cockroaches clean themselves; therefore they are one of the cleanest animals on Earth.” Try eating one……..only kidding! They inhabit the dirtiest places such as sewers and rubbish bins. They also urinate and defecate on your food. Still think they are clean? 7. “If your neighbour gets their cockroaches sprayed, they will all run into your house.” Cockroaches don’t crawl up to an invisible barrier and back up and go elsewhere. They run over it and pick up poison then die. 8. “Only dirty houses need pest control or being very clean will stop you having pests” Hygiene is a very important factor in pest control as it reduces the food supply of pests and increase the hiding places. Pests can be introduced to your environment via cardboard boxes from stores or by having them fly in on hot days from the street or other buildings close by (especially food preparation sites). Places like MacDonalds which clean everwhere on the hour are less likely to have them, but there are lots of ways cockroaches can come in. The key is to make sure they killed or are put back outside quickly! 9. “Termites are white-ants” They are more closely related to cockroaches biologically speaking, although they look a little like “white ants.” In Australia sometimes they are commonly called “white-ants,” but they are really termites. 10. “If you surround your home with timber, termites will eat this and stay out of your home.” Termites will love plenty of food supplies, and if they are stacked around your home they will breed like crazy. This will result in lots of termites and new colonies foraging around the perimeter of your home. Think that they will be satisfied with staying outside? Outright Pest Control Lies 1. “Without pesticides the world would be a better place.” Love the idea, but up to a third of the world’s population would starve to death if pesticides didn’t exist. In saying this, I would like pest control managers to be more informed and better trained than what they are right now. Way too much pesticide is used and a lot of it ends up where it shouldn’t be, like in waterways and killing non-target pests. ALWAYS ask for accreditation and license details before committing to getting any treatment done at your place. 2. “Twelve monthly termite control treatments are necessary to protect my home against termites.” This is just a con job and used to be a normal practice years ago, before people woke up to the fact that termiticides (insecticides that kill termites) last for years. Twelve to six monthly inspections are necessary in high risk termite areas, but treatments aren’t required yearly. 3. “All pest control firms/treatment/protection are the same.” Do your homework before committing to a company or treatment and ask for references from happy customers. Remember: “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten.” In Australia, call the Termite Experts on or visit our sites for more information on Termte Control at or go to for Pest Control advice.

Pest control for perennials

Pest control for perennials Perennials are a great choice for any garden, with their great variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Perennials also have another important advantage over other types of flowers. That is, unlike annuals, which must be replanted year after year, perennials, by their very nature, are able to regenerate from year to year. This means you are free to plant once and enjoy many seasons of beautiful blooms. While the actual longevity of perennials varies from variety to variety, some types, such as peonies, have been known to last for decades once planted. This longevity, however, can come at a price, and one of those disadvantages is that perennials need more care when it comes to maintenance, weeding and pest control. Unlike the annual garden, which is dug up and restarted each year, perennials remain in the ground over the winter, and this can make them more prone to common garden pests than other types of plants. One of the best defenses against pests in the perennial garden is a healthy and vigorous selection of plants. The healthier the plants in the garden the better they will be at fighting off common pests and garden infections. Plants that are well cared for and vigorous will be much less susceptible to damage by insects and other pests. The vigilance of the gardener is another great tool in preventing pest infestations from getting out of control. A good gardener is constantly on the lookout for early signs of problems, such as holes in the leaves, marks or wounds on the stems, and other signs of pest problems. Having a good guide to common garden pests and diseases is a good idea as well, since it can sometimes be difficult for the untrained eye to tell exactly what the problem is. Diagnosing the problem is the best way to cure it quickly, before it can spread. Gardeners have a choice when it comes to pest control in their gardens. There are of course a great many chemical pesticides on the market, but there are a number of natural methods as well. Many experienced gardeners prefer to start out with the natural approach first, and move onto chemical methods only when natural attempts have failed. One great natural pest control approach is to use beneficial insects to control harmful pests. Many garden supply stores sell these beneficial insects, and it is usually easy to seed a garden with these insects and get them to stay and remove harmful pests. In addition, aphids can often be controlled simply by spraying plants with a very dilute mixture of soapy water, followed by a rinse of clean water. This method often works just as well, and is considerably less expensive, than chemical methods, and it has proven effective even on serious aphid infestations. Another great way to control pests is to buy pest and disease resistant varieties of plants. Many perennials have been selectively bred to be resistant to common pests and diseases. If these varieties are available it is a good idea to seek them out. Even if they are more costly up front, the money you save on pesticides and other chemicals can make them quite cost effective. Tony Robinson is an international author and webmaster. In his busy life he finds time to “Smell the Roses”. For geat tips, techniques and The Gardening Guru’s Web Site Free gardening advice for both the novice as well as the experienced gardener Container Gardening Discover everything you need to know and more, for growing indoor and outdoor plants in containers. Garden Flowers.net Flowers - pictures and information about popular garden flowers for new and experienced gardeners. Bulbs for the Home Gardener Rare bulbs online available now to order Grow Prize Winning Roses This free instructional website will teach you all you need to know about the art of rose gardening

Practicing Safe Pest Control In Your Garden

Practicing Safe Pest Control In Your Garden Pests are a problem in many gardens and can ruin your flower bed or a good crop of vegetables. When dealing with pests, and especially in vegetable gardens, you want to use methods that are safe for both plants and humans. Since avoiding the use of harsh chemicals for pest control is a good idea all around, here’s some tips on some gentler methods of getting rid of garden pests. Physical Pest Control Time consuming but very natural, this method consists of many things you can physically do to control bugs and other pests. Picking grubs off by hand, creating barriers and traps and plugging holes. If snails are a problem, look for them hiding in damp places under rocks and near the base of those plants with straplike foliage. Biological Pest Control Get rid of pests by inviting insects in that eat them! Encouraging predatory insects such as dragonflies and green lacewings into your garden can help in your pest control efforts as they eat aphids and other pests that attack your plants. So how do you attract them? Try simply placing a shallow bowl of water in the garden. Dragonflies especially love water and will hover around it. Bacterial insecticides such as B. thuringiensis can also be used against caterpillars. Safer Pest Control Recipes You can mix up some solutions for pest control that are safe - and you probably have the ingredients right in your kitchen! To get rid of green aphids and mites - Mix 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and 1 cup vegetable oil. Dilute a teaspoon of this solution in a cup of water and spray on aphids and mites. Organic pest control methods can be successful and are much better for both you and the environment. Sometimes, however you cannot get rid of pests organically and must turn to chemicals as a last resort. If chemical sprays are really necessary you must use the least-toxic. Some of the least toxic pest control includes horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils and dehydrating dusts. Make sure that the chemical sprays and solutions you use are made specifically for the pests you are targeting. Read more articles at Lee Dobbins writes for Backyard Garden And Patio where you can get more great gardening and landscaping tips.

Pest Control Measures For Effective Flea Prevention

Pest Control Measures For Effective Flea Prevention Fleas are a common cause of irritation and infestation in your home. These unwanted guests can be found in your home and in large quantities. Out of the total flea population found in your home, about 80% of the fleas are still at the egg or larvae stage. These fleas can be found attached to your furniture, carpet, mats and anywhere in your home. The adult flea contributes to just 2% percent of the total flea population in your house. The remaining 18% of the flea population thrives in pupae stage. During this stage fleas are not harmed by any of the pest control products. Pest control products only affect fleas once they get out of the pupae stage. Wonder how many fleas you have at home! Pest control against indoor flea influx Fleas are a notorious cause of irritation and disease in your home. They also affect your pets. Fleas are the menace that you would like to get rid of forever. For this purpose there are various pest control products which are available for prevention as well as elimination of indoor infestation by fleas. Though there are numerous flea control products available, all are not safe. One must choose a product that is safe for children and pets. Moreover a good pest control is also water safe for fabrics. Majority of people and even professionals use flea spray for flea prevention and elimination. The reason behind flea spray is its safety factors. The safest flea or pest spray is labeled as “indoor flea”. A flea spray solution contains two types of substances: an adulticide, it is an insecticide which kills fleas; the other substance is the insect growth regulator (IGR). An average insecticide would not help you in getting rid of the fleas. An IGR inhibits the maturity stage of the fleas by not allowing them to grow. Pest control measures also include treating your carpets with Nylar. Nylar is an effective pest control measure against roaches and fleas. It inhibits the growth of fleas and leaves residual for up to 3-6 months. Nylar is available in aerosol formulations and liquid concentrate. Nylar is among the best flea prevention methods. It rids your home of visible adult fleas. An effective pest control measure for fleas can be buying electronic flea traps. These are an effective alternative to pesticides. A flea trapper kills adult fleas prowling for a pet. The trap emits attractive heat, light and infrared from the light bulb. The fleas get attracted to it and are killed as soon as they touch the screen. It is one of the permanent and safest pest control measures for your home, especially against fleas. You should use a vacuum cleaner at home. It is the worst enemy of fleas. When used regularly it ensures that your furniture, carpets and sofas remain flea free. Flea Stoppers is an effective pest control measure against fleas. It is a formulated mini granular orthoboric acid specially made for fleas. Just sprinkle this flea stopper freely on your carpet and to kill fleas and their larvae in the carpet. Flea stoppers are effective even when the carpet is washed or soaped. Pest control for pets Fleas mainly breed on mammals. Pets in your home provide as a haven for them. You should check and clean your pets for fleas too. You should flea comb your pets regularly. Dip the comb in an enzyme cleaner and then comb your pet. You should restrict the entry of the pet in your bedrooms. Wash all pet beddings and rugs to ensure good pet hygiene as well as preventing the fleas spreading. You should bathe your pet too, to prevent fleas from settling on it. Pest control measure act as an effective flea prevention measures. You should always check your home for fleas and take immediate steps to eliminate them.

Pest Control Tips for Maintaining Your Greenhouse

Pest Control Tips for Maintaining Your Greenhouse Greenhouses provide a warm, humid atmosphere and are home to a variety of different plants and flowers which is why they are a perfect target for insects. There are numerous types of insects which will want to live in your greenhouse and feed off of the wonderful plants and flowers which you have put so much time and effort into maintaining. The information below will provide you with tips and guidelines to follow in order to ensure you are doing everything in your power to ward off any unwanted pests. The first step in learning how to prevent and eliminate insects from entering into your greenhouse is to understand and become familiar with the types of insects which are likely to reside there. The following is a list of the most common types of insects which you will likely find in your greenhouse: Aphids Fungus Gnats Flies (many forms) Bloodworms Thrips Caterpillars Mites Slugs and Snails Now that you are aware of the different types of bugs and insects which may have taken up residence in your greenhouse, it’s time to learn how to prevent and/or eliminate them from remaining there. Here are a number of things to keep in mind in order to ensure there are no bugs in your greenhouse: 1. Always keep all doors, screens and windows shut when not being used for specific purposes. 2. Inspect all new plants to ensure there are no bugs on them to begin with. Bugs have the ability to multiply quickly and can potentially cause a huge infestation in your greenhouse. 3. Make sure there is no water lying around whether it is in jugs, cups or in a puddle on the floor. Insects are attracted to wet areas. 4. Keep your greenhouse in good, clean condition. Not only do insects like water but they like to disguise themselves under areas of clutter. This also means keeping the lawn around your greenhouse mowed and neat at all times. Many pests reside in weeds, if you keep your lawn cut there will be no weeds for the insects to reside in. 5. Bright colors such as yellow and red attract insects. Try not to wear or display (other than on the flowers themselves) any bright colors which may attract unwanted insects. These guidelines will provide you with the basic knowledge you will need to ensure there are no unwanted insects in your greenhouse. Now you can relax and enjoy all the hard work which went into creating such an amazing atmosphere. Holly Masters loves to garden and takes pride in her greenhouse. She has spent much time learning about greenhouses and serves as a contributing writer for - a site that offers information about everything from sunrooms to greenhouse kits.

Termites and Termite Control - How To Stop Problem Jobs From Becoming Nightmares

Termites and Termite Control - How To Stop Problem Jobs From Becoming Nightmares Termites have a very useful role within our environment, but when they invade and attack your home, they can become a hated enemy, a source of heartache and anxiety. Every problem has a solution, and there is no need for any job turning into a nightmare. There are however, certain practices in the pest control industry that should be adopted for all inspections and treatments, and some “dodgy” operators that should be avoided like the plague! In Australia, one house in three at some stage will become affected by termites, which is more prevalent than damage caused by fire, storm and flood combined. This article will examine how to prevent termite attack, methods of inspection, protection, control and treatment. Termite Control Control of pest termites involves identifying the species, locating the nest and choosing the best eradication methods. A combination of doing regular, competent building inspections in termite-prone areas, using naturally resistant or treated timbers in buildings, and installing chemical and physical soil barriers around buildings is necessary to prevent further problems. Houses nearby may often have termite nests nearby in trees, stumps and underground but these may not contain pest species. When they do, it should be the main focus of the termite control technician to locate and treat these areas before any protection is implemented. Too often the technician will “advise” the worried homeowner that termites may be “anywhere within 100 metres” of the property and its impossible to pinpoint exactly where they may be coming from. In my opinion, if you don’t even try to find out the origin of the problem, your chances of gaining control of the problem dramatically drop. Even if the house is surrounded by dense bushland, I think it is definitely worth the time and expense of test drilling and treating ALL trees and stumps surrounding the property within a 50-100 metre radius, because that is where most infestations originate. If it means drilling 40-60 trees or investigating all surrounding homes, isn’t that a lot better than ignoring a possible source of infestation? Most pest control companies will not go to this extra effort, and will try to convince the client that their baiting technique or soil barrier system is designed to protect your home in all circumstances. DON’T BELIEVE THEM! Better investigations and inspections lead to better termite protection and treatments. Its only common sense to take all efforts to find out the origin of the attack. Termite Inspection of Pest Species Termite identification in Sydney Australia is highly specialized and pest controllers need to thoroughly inspect all areas of the property before any protection or treatment is begun. This may be conducted with the following equipment: Flashlight with bright light This is essential and krypton bulbs give the best light for torches generally available today. LED torches, headlamps and flashlights are the next generation inspection tools and should be used when they come onto the market. A termite sounding donger A fiberglass rod with a small plastic ball at the end. It is designed to run along skirting boards, higher placed timbers and other exposed timbers. When it runs across termite infested timber the tone changes, indicating hollowed out timber. A Moisture Meter It is designed to pick up high moisture content in walls and timbers. Termites bring up moisture from the soil and into the walls and timbers. A Termatrac microwave tracking device Termatrac is a breakthrough development in the building inspection detection of termites, invented and developed in Australia using technology similar to radar, Termatrac is the exciting answer to detecting termites through timber, plaster board, brick or masonry with no interference to the building material or termite activity. With no drilling, tapping or prodding, Termatrac is the answer to termite detection without termite defection! With Termatrac, the pest professional enjoys the advantage of accurate detection and customer peace of mind. Pen Knife & Tape If termite infested timber is located, we may cut it with a pen knife and expose the interior of timber, identifying the species of termites then seal it back up with tape so as not to disturb the termites. Listening Device This listens to termite sounds in the internal of the walls. However, if you tap the wall with your hand and put your ear up to the wall you can hear the soldier termites communicate by tapping their mandibles onto the timbers. Home Inspection A home inspection for termites is known in Sydney Australia as a building inspection and includes a pest report and a building report. It involves a thorough visual inspection of the sub floor, roof void interior, exterior, and other areas of the property. An average house takes anywhere from one to two hours to complete. Cost varies from $160-$360 depending on the size of the house and access. This is including G.S.T. Tax The report consists of multiple pages setting out the areas of concern and what to do to rectify problems. Digital photos are available upon request. Please remember a termite inspection report is designed to detect termites at an early stage as to reduce the amount of damage to your house. It does not stop termites. It is strongly recommended a termite inspection report is carried out at least once every twelve months and every three to six months for high risk areas. Note: There is no household insurance that covers you for termite damage. Termite Report Essentially a termite building inspection report is designed to: 1. Detect old damage and active termites. 2. Gives you the element of risk of infestation. 3. Gives you tips on reducing the chances of termite infestation. 4. Gives us enough information to accurately quote you on a termite treatment and to use the most appropriate method. 5. Identifies species of termites and (most importantly) 6. Educates you about termites. Economically Important Pest Termites Out of the 258 described termite species in Australia, only a few timber-damaging species are of concern to us. The five families that include the most common pest species are: 1. Mastotermitidae (1 pest species - Giant Termite, Mastrotermes darwinensis) 2. Kalotermitidae (several pest species of ‘dry-wood termites’, including the introduced Cryptotermes brevis) 3. Termopsidae (1 pest species - Dampwood termite, Porotermes adamsoni) 4. Rhinotermitidae (7 pest species, including Coptotermes acinaciformes) 5. Termitidae (5 pest species, including Nasutitermes walkeri) The Giant Termite (Mastotermes darwinensis) has the greatest potential for destruction. However, it is limited to the tropical areas of northern Australia. It attacks any wood in contact with the ground including shrubs and trees, as well as paper, leather, clothing and other materials. It is a large-bodied primitive species that usually forms small colonies and has no true worker caste. West Indian Dry-wood Termite The introduced West Indian Dry-wood Termite (Cryptotermes brevis) is considered to be the world’s worst termite pest as it can eat even very small timber objects with few external signs of damage, can quickly take over from native termite species, can survive in quite dry conditions, and is easily transported. If it is found, it should be reported to the relevant government authority. It has been found in Brisbane and Sydney, as well as other areas on several occasions. Most Destructive Species However the most destructive species overall in Australia is Coptotermes acinaciformes. It is distributed throughout the continent and uses tree stumps, living trees, spaces under buildings and even walls as nesting sites. From the nest site, any wooden structure within a 100-metre radius can be attacked via underground tunnels. Although they usually need contact with soil, some nests of this termite species have even been found several floors up in city buildings or on ferries. A common species that nests in Sydney’s coastal bushland is Nasutitermes walkeri. It forms distinctive round ball-shaped nests that are especially abundant in the years following major bushfires (as it mainly nests in stressed trees). It can also damage fences, poles and wood on the ground, but it rarely attacks buildings. This species has the largest soldiers (up to 6 mm long) of the Nasutitermes genus, with the characteristic nasute head. High Risk Suburbs Termite control in Sydney, Australia is particularly important in these high risk suburbs: Castle Hill Winston Hills Dural Baulkham Hills Wahroonga Frenchs Forest Manly Epping Carlingford Leichhardt We service all these areas as well as the Australian capital cities -Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, Canberra, Adelaide, Perth, Hobart and Darwin. Remember, if you follow all of the advice in this article, selecting a qualified Termite Expert who is aware of, and implements appropriate termite inspections, protection and treatments will help prevent a problem job from turning into a nightmare. You can arrange for a comprehensive inspection by a qualified Termite Expert simply by emailing our office at info@termiteexperts.com.au or Phone: 1300 131 449 for more termite (white-ant) information, to book a termite inspection with one of our members, or to arrange a quote for treatment of termites. Bruce Gow holds Certificate 1V in Urban Pest Management and has Termite Specialist Accreditation amongst many other pest control certifications. He owned and managed Best Pest Control (NSW) Pty Ltd, a successful termite and pest control firm for 24 years, and now acts as an internet consultant for the new owner.

Seasonal advice

Argentine Ant The argentine ant can be nearly impossible to control, especially during midsummer in areas such as Southern California. At best, regular treatments keep as few ants as possible from entering the home or business. Top of the page Carpenter Ant Successfully controlling carpenter ants requires certain skills, knowledge and experience. Carpenter ant control involves tracking down and treating as many satellite colonies as possible inside and outside of the home as well as attempting to find and treat the parent colony. Accessing the parent colony may be difficult because it might be located high in a tree or on a neighboring property. In such cases, your service professional may use carpenter ant baits, but these may have varying results because of the carpenter ants’ finicky feeding habits. If conditions on your property (such as a large number of trees) create a high risk for reinfestation, your service professional may recommend regular pest management services to help prevent new infestations These tips will help you limit carpenter ant infestation: Store any firewood away from your home and remove any dead wood or wood scraps from around the foundation. Trim dead limbs from trees and remove stumps. Rid your yard of these potential nesting sites. Make sure that all plumbing or roof leaks are sealed, and check crawl spaces for excess moisture. Water from rain gutters should be directed away from your home and not be allowed to accumulate close to the foundation. Crazy Ant This species may be difficult to control and does not feed much on ant baits. The keys to control are to find the colonies and subcolonies and treat them directly. Regular inspections and service are necessary to find and treat new colonies as they move from neighboring properties. The services of a professional, such as Hathorn's, are very helpful when encountering these ants. Fire Ant Because of the health threat posed by fire ants, it is important to take steps to control the ants around the home and in the yard. Over-the-counter fire ant baits can be effective if properly used, but regular applications are necessary because the ants readily reinvade from neighboring properties. Many homeowners employ the services of a professional company, such as Hathorn's, to provide fire ant services. Odorous House Ant This ant can be difficult to control because it establishes multiple subcolonies and may nest in such a wide variety of sites. The keys to control are to find the colonies and subcolonies and treat them directly. Where the colonies cannot be found, baits may be attempted; however, several baits may be required before positive results are seen. Regular inspections and service are necessary to find and treat new colonies as they move in from neighboring properties. The services of a professional, such as Hathorn's, are very helpful when encountering these ants. General tips for limiting ant infestations include: Eliminate piles of lumber, bricks, or other debris that could serve as a nesting site for ants. Keep landscape mulch less than 2 inches thick and at least 12 inches away from foundations. Ensure the sprinkler system does not spray directly onto the foundation. Seal as many cracks in the building's exterior as possible. Keep tree and shrub branches trimmed to prevent them from touching the building. Pharaoh Ant Pharaoh ants can only be controlled by effective placement of ant baits. The type of bait that is ultimately successful is one on which the colony or colonies involved will feed for an extended period of time. The foraging workers return the bait to the colony, feeding it to other workers, larvae and queens. American Cockroach The key to control is to find and treat these sources directly. In many cases, the services of a professional company, such as Hathorn's, are required to achieve long-term relief. In southern states where this cockroach lives outdoors, successful control involves treating the attic, crawl space, and exterior cracks in the home and finding and treating likely cockroach harborages over the entire property. Australian Cockroach Eliminating or minimizing potential harborages outside is the best way to limit infestations of these cockroaches. Sealing cracks in the building's exterior is a prudent step to prevent pests from entering. Installing screening in all vents is important. Smoky Brown Cockroach The best way to control smoky brown cockroaches is to determine the source and treat it directly, usually with a cockroach bait product. To keep these cockroaches from invading, the following steps are helpful: Ensure the attic and/or crawl space has sufficient ventilation. Research has shown that proper ventilation creates an environment unsuitable for cockroaches and other pests. It also improves the heating and cooling efficiency of the home. Make sure that all foundation and attic vents are equipped with tight-fitting screens. Seal as many exterior cracks and holes as possible on the outside of the home. Do not allow pet food to sit out overnight. Pick it up after outdoor pets are finished eating. Store firewood as far from the house as possible, locating it off the ground and covering it with a tarp or plastic. Eliminate piles of lumber and debris where cockroaches could harbor. Carpet Beetle Your Hathorn service professional can rid your home of these pests, but there are a few steps you can take to protect your clothing until your fabric pest problem can be controlled: Do not store boxes of clothes in the attic, garage or basement, if possible. If clothing must be stored in boxes, thoroughly clean the boxes before storage and seal all corners and openings with tape. Prior to storage, clean woolen and natural fiber clothing according to the manufacturer's instructions. In closets, store natural fiber clothing items by covering them with individual plastic covers. Consider storing clothing in large zippered plastic units. Use mothballs to help deter fabric pests, but be aware that they may leave an odor that could require dry cleaning. Webbing Clothes Moth Your Terminix service professional can rid your home of these pests, but there are a few steps you can take to protect your clothing until your fabric pest problem can be controlled: Do not store boxes of clothes in the attic, garage or basement, if possible. If clothing must be stored in boxes, thoroughly clean the boxes before storage and seal all corners and openings with tape. Prior to storage, clean woolen and natural fiber clothing according to the manufacturer's instructions. In closets, store natural fiber clothing items by covering them with individual plastic covers. Consider storing clothing in large zippered plastic units. Use mothballs to help deter fabric pests, but be aware that they may leave an odor that could require dry cleaning. Cricket The best way to limit crickets is to eliminate as much potential harborage as possible outside the building. The following tips should prove helpful: Store firewood away from the home and off the ground. Dispose of piles of lumber or store such items off the ground. Clean up piles of leaf litter and clean up any debris that could provide shelter. Remove any heavy ground cover in landscaping within 10 feet of the building. Install yellow "bug" light bulbs in outdoor fixtures to attract as few crickets as possible. Seal as many exterior cracks and holes as possible in the outside walls. Improve crawl space ventilation to make the subspace less attractive to camel crickets. House Mouse The best way to avoid invasions of mice is to (1) provide as little harborage as possible that might attract rodents, and (2) seal as many holes and cracks in the outside of the home through which mice might enter. Follow these recommendations to help prevent rodents from seeking the shelter provided by your home: Keep firewood stored as far from the home as possible and store it off the ground. During the winter, store only enough wood next to the house to burn every couple of days. If possible, remove any piles of debris, stones, bricks, etc. If these are near the foundation of the home they serve as harborages to attract rodents. Once there, it is any easy step for rodents to enter the building itself. Do not allow piles of leaves to accumulate next to the home's foundation. This also serves as attractive harborage for rodents - mice in particular. Seal any hole or crack larger than 1/4 of an inch. A good rule of thumb is that if a pencil can fit into it, a mouse could too. Large holes or cracks should be stuffed with steel wool or wire mesh before sealing with caulk or foam, otherwise rodents could chew through to enter. Install good, thick weatherstrip on the bottom of all doors to prevent rodents from entering. The garage door may prove difficult to seal completely, so the door from the garage to the house must be sealed tightly. The installation of one or two wind-up mouse traps in the garage can catch many mice as they enter. These traps can catch up to 15 mice with one setting. Ask your Terminix service professional for more information. Remember, your Terminix service includes coverage of rodents, and much of the service provided during the colder months is to inspect for signs of rodents and to maintain preventive control measures. Norway Rat The best way to avoid invasions of rats is to (1) provide as little harborage as possible that might attract rodents, and (2) seal as many holes and cracks in the outside of the home as possible through which rats might enter. The following recommendations should be followed to help prevent rats from seeking the food and shelter provided by your home: Keep firewood stored as far from the home as possible and store it off the ground. During the winter, store only enough wood next to the house to burn every couple of days. If possible, remove any piles of debris, stones, bricks, etc. If these are near the foundation of the home they serve as harborages to attract rodents. Once there, it is any easy step for rodents to enter the building itself. Seal any hole or crack larger than 1/4 of an inch. Large holes or cracks should be stuffed with steel wool or wire mesh before sealing with caulk or foam, otherwise rodents could chew through to enter. Install a good, thick weatherstrip on the bottom of all doors to prevent rodents from entering. The garage door may prove difficult to seal completely, so the door from the garage to the house must be sealed tightly. Remember, your Terminix service includes coverage of rodents, and much of the service provided during the colder months is to inspect for signs of rodents and to maintain preventive control measures. House Spider Regular removal of spider webs is the best way to limit these spiders. Sealing up cracks around windows and doors helps prevent their entry. Switch exterior lights to the yellow "bug" light bulbs which attract fewer flying insects on which spiders feed. Treatments to exterior spider nesting sites can help reduce the numbers of spiders when combined with an overall pest management program. Wolf Spider The best approach for controlling wolf spiders is through placement of sticky traps to capture the few spiders that may have entered. Maintaining sticky traps behind furniture, to either side of exterior doors, and in the garage is an excellent way to intercept most spiders as they enter. Steps that should be taken to prevent new spiders from entering, include: Removing or limiting heavy, ground-covering vegetation near the building. Sealing cracks and holes in the building's exterior. Installing tight-fitting screens on all attic and foundation vents. Sealing holes around pipes indoors to prevent spiders from entering the living spaces by following plumbing lines in basements and crawl spaces. Where wolf spider invasions are persistent, a professional should be consulted to conduct a thorough inspection and recommend possible treatments. Bald-faced Hornet Hornets and yellow jackets should only be controlled by an experienced professional. The danger of stings is considerable, especially when proper protective clothing and equipment are not worn. Cat Flea Controlling a flea infestation successfully requires four steps: Preparation for treatment. Treatment of pets. Treatment of the inside premises. Treatment of flea activity sites outside. Obviously, the pet is critical to minimizing flea infestations and regular grooming helps to limit fleas on the pet. For this reason, customers need to keep the pet groomed and treated with on-animal flea control products. Step One. Any flea treatment will be less effective if the home is not prepared properly by completing the following steps: Remove all items, such as toys, clothes, and pet food from all floors. Remove all items from under beds and in the bottom of closets. Wash or replace pet bedding. Vacuum all carpets and rugs thoroughly, including beneath beds and upholstered furniture. Clean all wood, tile, and linoleum floors by sweeping and mopping. Clean concrete floors with soap and water in the garage, basement, or enclosed patio where pets rest or stay. Remove all pets including birds and reptiles. Cover fish tanks with a damp towel and turn off the air pump. Replace any pet bedding outdoors and make all shaded areas, crawl spaces, etc. available for treatment. Arrange to be out of the home for several hours until the treatment has thoroughly dried. Step Two. The homeowner needs to arrange for treating the pet. A number of on-animal treatment products are now available. Treatment of pets should be done under the direction of a veterinarian. Step Three. In homes that have an active flea infestation, a residual treatment combined with an insect growth regulator should be applied. A professional, like Hathorn's, can best accomplish this treatment by using specialized equipment. Efforts should be focused on the areas where pets rest or sleep. These are the sites where the most fleas will be located. Step Four. Outside, treatment should be applied to shaded areas and beneath shrubs and decks where pets rest or sleep. Again, a professional has the right equipment to provide this treatment effectively. Yellow Jacket The following precautions should be taken to prevent accidental stings: When working in a garden or flowerbed, be aware of numerous wasps flying into and away from a single point in the garden or to a hole in the side of the house. This will usually indicate where a colony might be located. Be careful when using powered lawn equipment, such as edgers, trimmers and mowers. Loud, vibrating noises disturb yellow jackets and may send them into an attacking frenzy. Stay away from yellow jacket nests once you know where they are located. If yellow jackets are seen entering and exiting a wall, DO NOT plug the hole. You will only force the wasps to find another way out. Sometimes they might actually eat through an interior wall and enter the house.